Wiring. Part 1

First thing, we test all the gauges.

Tach: check

Volts: Check

Oil pressure: check

Somehow lost the light that snaps in the back of it though. Hope that turns up soon.

Fuel gauge: Nope.

I had read in Bridget’s build manual that the sender in the fuel tank was to be changed to match the Classic Instruments gauge. But since that gauge never read more than three-fourths full I allowed myself the delusion that maybe it hadn’t happened. Maybe it would just work.

No go.

It went to about 3/4, clicked and fell to empty.

I flipped the leads to it and it didn’t change its behavior one bit. looked up on the innerwebs some troubleshooting tips. I’d like to formally thank Bill C.: You da Main, man!

Figured I’d run the ohm test on my sender in situ, since I know the tank is just about full.

63 ohms. Should me more like 10-15 at this level. So, sender’s no good–at least for this application.

But, as per Bill, the jumpy gauge (and lack of any heat coming off the vibrator) means the vibrator is shot too.

Back to CIP1… $52 down the tubes [update here]. Then again, That still puts me under $100 for the speedo and fuel gauge combo pack, which compares very favorably with Moss Motors’ replica TD speedo.

Pray that speedo works as advertised. I’ll find out (I hope) in a couple weeks when this job is behind me and I can road-test her.

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About stuntmidget

I'm a poor mechanic and general wisenheimer. I love old cars and the stories behind them, true or not.
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