Plugging away…

Got the trans mounts done.

The other day I relieved the nose cone so the thing could stick into the tunnel as far as it needs to without the edges hitting the metal in the tunnel. These ribs add strength to a weak part of the trans, but it had to be done.

transcut 1

transcut 2 transcut 3 transcut 4

Now I’m depending on my home-made trans mounts more than ever to protect the brittle nosecone from breakage under heavy torque.

Today I added some bolts to the bracket on the transmission to better connect the angle iron to the main piece. It was epoxied, but my threaded-rod gussets must have stressed that so the back part let go. So: bolts (because welding thin metal to thick metal is not for me, not yet). Then the holes for the bushings didn’t line up again, and I could not get the bushings in past the new bolt heads. So took it apart to adjust.

Then it went together and I cinched it up. It looked good and felt very sturdy.

Found out the shift rod that extends from the front of the transaxle was sitting too high. It’s called the “hockey stick,” and it connects to the actual shift rod with a rubber bushing. The two rods need to be pretty well lined up or the car won’t shift too well.

Looked for ways to make the mounting bushings an eighth inch thicker. Ended up cutting another bushing in half, trimming the pointy bits off the existing ones (cause I was these pretty flat against the flat metal so they’ll be uniformly firm) and then had a hell of a time stacking half-bushings on slightly cut whole bushings in the little metal boxes that are formed by my engineering handiwork.

But, got it done. The hockey stick looks just about right now. So there’s only the job of taking out the shift rod and shortening it 3/4 of an inch or so.

(And, probably, re-doing those bushings with metal spacers since the cut bushing feels too soft to me to do the job I’ve assigned it. But maybe that can wait until after the road test).

I decided to test fit the engine again to make sure the back end of the car will go together with it in. And I put in the new Bully clutch while I was at it since I already changed the oil separator plate.

bully disc1 bully disc 2

I bolted the KEP plate on the back and then put the flywheel on, torquing the bolts to 55 ft-pounds per Subaru spec.

Then I realized I had no thread lock on them, and then I could not find my thread lock, so I went to Autozone for some thread lock.

new threadlock

Bolted the thing back with threadlock on the bolts. Cleaned up with brake kleen.

brake cleanerCleaned up the new pressure plate and stole the bolts from the VW clutch to put it on the new car. The old clutch looked good, which amazes me, as it chattered like heck and there was no word about how many miles were on it.

Torqued the Stage 1 pressure plate to 25 ft-lbs per Kennedy Engineering’s spec. After five when that was all done and I’m le tired so knocking off for the day.

clutch done

Tomorrow: engine back in, body parts test-fit, clutch cable attached (to check it) and pull the shift rod out the front of the car.

Then we begin the process of laying out cooling and fuel lines.

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About stuntmidget

I'm a poor mechanic and general wisenheimer. I love old cars and the stories behind them, true or not.
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