Progress and setbacks

Was too tired after last weekend’s work to even post, but I knocked off early yesterday (7:30 p.m.) to save some energy for an update. So, in order:

Progress was made easter weekend.

1. Bought a $5 gas can cap from Home Depot and peeled the gasket out of it for my swirl tank. Fits perfect and solves what may be the last weak point there. The rig has not leaked yet.
swirl tank test 2
2. Got some brass adaptor bits for the oil sender port. I need to run the stock sender for the idiot light plus a cap tube to my gauge. And it all has to fit under the alternator. And apparently it does–barely–though I’m unsure if I will have to retap the fitting on the engine. I’ll probably tape it to start and see if it leaks. IMG_4261
3. Reinstalled the engine to test fit my oil fill. NG. Cut and re-epoxied that item and now it fits. IMG_4254 IMG_4255 IMG_4256 IMG_4267
4. Mounted my fuel filter on my diamond plate. Fixed attachment points for all that.
5. Cut back of the tub to fit the air intake. Cut the air intake to fit the car. Bought some plumbing supplies to mock up the needed bends for all that, and mocked them up. It’s really quite a mockery…
6. Corresponded with Tom Shiels about the wiring harness. Measured needed lengths to all the electronic components and sent word back to him. He said he’d build the harness in the coming week. And then he did. It’s on the way now.IMG_4247 IMG_4249
7. Dropped the steel crossmember running board support out and began modifying it to accommodate the coolant lines. (Cut cut, bend bend, hammer, hammer, cut, etc.). Got about 40 percent done over Easter weekend, most of the rest this weekend. The part is reinstalled for test fit with the pipes. I will need to weld the metal back together where I cut it.
IMG_4242 IMG_4243 IMG_4244 IMG_4246
8. sawed open the floor pan for the big coolant lines and mocked up the passenger side in PVC.
–And now the driver’s side as well. Got my coolant lines all mocked up–all the way to the engine on the passenger side, and with just one tricky section missing on the high side. Also got the heater hoses squared away.
IMG_4288 IMG_4287
After discussions with Shiels and further review of reality, I bought this to make a “wheel of death” speed sensor, because I have no other options. Fortunately, someone posted the awesome blue print of the steel wheel itself, to facilitate its making.Visio-speedsensor.vsd
By the end of Easter Weekend I figured I only needed:
+air intake
+radiator support, and all pipes (+heater)(+fan shroud)
+Clutch and accelerator cable
+fuel line install (and swirl tank finals, fuel tank fix, etc)
+exhaust fabrication
+a few welds (Trans mount finals, tunnel, etc)
+install wiring
+reinstall interior, fix stuff I cut up
Three weeks to get it all done for the Carlisle Kit and Import show May 16.

After this weekend I think I’m going to shoot for “towable.” I got the gas tank squared away, but that success was counterbalanced by a lot of not-success.

Good news first: new wider spigot installed and O-ringed where the old gasket had turned to powder. People tell me there is no such gasket but my tank fitting is mighty loose without one.

IMG_4296 IMG_4294 IMG_4291 IMG_4290
Mike at the muffler shop says he’s ready to do my pipes–just get the car there. And while he was telling me that he fabbed up a rough intake out of 2 1/2-inch exhaust pipe. Said mark it for cuts and orient it for welding and then gave it to me for nothing. This took all of 10 minutes.

But I did not get Bridget quite ready to tow to National Budget muffler. I also had other setbacks.

I ruined my bowden tube looking to shorten it. There really is not way to make a bowden tube shorter. I should’ve left it alone.

The story there is prosaic. Because I set my whole transaxle forward 1.2 inches or so, my clutch cable needs to be about that much shorter, and the bowden tube–bless its little spring steel heart–ought to be likewise.

And turns out there are several different lengths of VW bowden tubes in the catalogue.
But unfortunately, Bridget already has the shortest one. Dang.
I ordered a new one, and a new clutch cable since the old one was starting to fray. It looks like there are two ways to get the right bend in the tube: 1. Fabricate a new bracket for the back part–the part that bolts to the side cover–with a one-inch stretch. Or 2. Cut an inch off the “hard line” clutch cable tube that emerges from the tunnel just atop of the torsion tube. That looks like the easier route. I could maybe cut that nice and neat with my tubing cutter, but I’m worried it’s maybe flared or made thicker in its final inch so as to be reinforced where it fits into the bowden tube. So.
Also found a mess of rust up under the frame head. The PO had glassed everything over but some of this glass is coming loose now and under it is, well, nothing. Gonna be pretty embarrassing when I take this mess to the muffler shop for tubes. Those boys gonna laugh hard.
Maybe they can fix it though: looks like less glass on the front area than the rest of the pan. If they can grind it off maybe they can weld some metal back in there. Maybe I don’t need to buy a whole new frame head, etc…
Also, while messing with the clutch cable and etc. I also noticed that the engine is on wrong yet again. I can move the throwout bearing arm easily by hand, same as last time. This means something is not right–the pressure plate ought to make that thing all but impossible to move. No idea why this could be. I aligned all the clutch parts with the align tool. I took out the thing that screwed me up last time. The engine seemed to go on right. . .
So now the engine has to come back out and go back in again before I can take the car to the muffler shop.
My guy says he can do it this week if I can get it there.

About stuntmidget

I'm a poor mechanic and general wisenheimer. I love old cars and the stories behind them, true or not.
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One Response to Progress and setbacks

  1. Pingback: Coolant line progress | bridgetmgtd

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