By mid May I had the wires back and only needed to get my radiator squared away nicely before I ran out of excuses not to try to get the car running.
I ended up using an aluminum angle iron–bent slightly with help from a little torch, to get the top of the rad mounted solid. I’m kind of proud of this.
The original Suby fan fit pretty well. I made a couple of steel brackets and bolted them in with the existing radiator shroud bolts. There is an L on them and captive nuts for the fan housing. It all fits tight and looks pretty decent, say so myself.
I’m sure I could make this work, but looking at it, I think I’m going to end up making an aluminum plate shroud to deflect air down and out the bottom. It would leave more room for cargo and seal better, I think. And also it would look way cooler. More on that later.
With the rad mounts done, I turned my attention to the wiring harness Tom Shiels made for me. My idea–this was a few weeks ago, Memorial Day Weekend–was to get the engine to fire and run, just for a few seconds, as a proof of concept before the final pipe work was done at the muffler shop.
I had already taken an couple of after-work evenings and made the “Wheel of Death” speed sensor and bracket. Here’s how those turned out:
Then I plugged in all the plugs from the wire harness to the engine.
The white wires got ring connectors and were run to the starter lug, along with the battery and the key switch. I could now turn the starter over–which I did.
The engine cranks convincingly.
Next I looked for the loose wires and found the one marked Ignition On. That’s supposed to get keyed power. I twisted that to one of the lose wires from the old harness that lights my test light when I turn the key on. Then I wired the one marked “fuel pump” to my fuel pump hot wire. I turned the key on and expected to hear the fuel pump whir to life.
It did not.
So I unhitched the fuel pump wire and tried running it straight off the battery. Oh yeah, it works.
Tried it again. no. Tried it reverse-pole. no. Checked with Shiels. he says + to pump, so put it back that way. No. Tried the battery again. Works. Hooked it up again and turned the key. No go.
So I took a break.
Had a brainwave: ground the box! The ECU was bolted to the chassis in the Subaru.
I ran a ground wire to a screw on the ECU and tried again.